© 2002 - 2004 www.thesciencist.org
The Sciencist
A peer-reviewed journal of
scientific discovery
|
| Travigne’s
Animaux comestibles:
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Zoological Taxonomy
Sergei Rzhechnyik
This paper
takes a fresh look at a long-forgotten system
of animal classification. Its course of development
is closely examined, and its fundamental concepts
are explained. A brief biography of its revered
creator is also presented.
[This
paper is also available in PDF format]
Background
Scientific classification has
its roots in the system of Carl Linnaeus (1707-1778),
who is often referred to as the father of modern
plant and animal taxonomy (Gerszonowicz, 1985).
His bizarre system of classification, first introduced
in 1735 along with a method of binomial nomenclature,
grouped plants into classes—which
in turn were divided into orders, genera
and species—based on the number and
arrangement of their sexual organs. Despite the
disturbing and controversial nature of his methods,
Linnaeus’s hierarchical classification, after
much revision, has remained the standard for over
200 years.
The Linnaean system, however,
neither is nor was the only viable method of classification.
For example, a recent trend in biology called cladism
has been gaining in popularity recently. Whereas
Linnaeus grouped species according to shared physical
characteristics, cladism describes the evolutionary
relationships between living things. Similarly,
other systems of classification based on differing
features have emerged throughout history, as a challenge
to the conventional way of thinking. Despite their
ingenuity, however, few of these systems have ever
succeeded in gaining widespread acceptance, and
most have subsequently been lost and forgotten.
In this paper, the author would therefore like to
reintroduce one such lost method, in the spirit
of once again challenging the accepted status quo.
A Culinary Pioneer
Born in 1756 in the town of Levionne-sur-mer,
France, Louis Travigne was the son of a wealthy
textile merchant. Though reported at times to have
assisted his father in the mercantile trade, thanks
to his well-off status he was largely free to pursue
his various hobbies and interests. The most well
known of these was his passion for fine French cuisine:
described in town records as being robust and of
large girth, he was rumoured to have commonly eaten
four to five meals a day (Records, 1781). He was
equally renowned for his self-published written
critiques of the eating establishments within his
community, wherein he frequently bemoaned the quality
of the local fare.
Few, if any, however, knew the
full extent of Travigne’s recreational activities.
For in addition to his great love of food, Travigne
was, in fact, an avid devotee to the scientific
process. The reality was that, unbeknownst to his
friends and neighbours, Travigne had at some point
taken upon himself the unusual task of creating
a unique and never-before-seen system of zoological
classification. He based this, naturally, on what
he knew best—the multitude of flavours to
be found within the animal kingdom. Using a thorough
process of testing and analysis, Travigne first
composed a series of detailed descriptions comparing
the minute differences in taste between various
animals. He later constructed a rudimentary two-level
system of classification based on his findings,
eventually compiling his writings into a single
document, which he tentatively titled Animaux
comestibles.
Not being a formal member of the
scientific community, Travigne was likely unaware
of the similar work already done by Linnaeus and
his predecessors. And though scientific in nature,
his book was undoubtedly never meant to be an academic
tome; rather, it was designed for practical use
as a dining supplement, perhaps as a guide to selecting
side dishes or wine. Nevertheless, his devotion
to his recreational research and the meticulousness
with which his carried it out make Travigne the
archetype of the modern science-minded professional.
Method of Analysis
When analysing organisms, Travigne
employed a strict, three-stage evaluation process.
This process consisted of “l’essai de
broche” (spit test), “l’essai
de potage” (soup test), and “l’essai
de pâté” (pâté test).
The primary phase, the spit test, was the simplest
procedure, as it involved merely skewering an animal
lengthwise and roasting its flesh over an open fire.
No additional flavouring or spices were used, with
the only concession made being the removal of fur,
feathers or scales. Once cooked to a satisfactory
degree, Travigne would then peel off small sections
of hot, juicy meat with his bare hands for immediate,
on-the-spot taste testing. The second stage, the
soup test, was somewhat more complicated. A 979
gram (2 livre poids de marc) sample was
first chopped into finger-length pieces and browned
in oil over high heat. It was then transferred to
a large stock pot filled with approx. 2 500 ml (2.5
litron) of water, along with 1 medium-sized
onion, 1 carrot and 1 leek. After being brought
to a boil, it was left to simmer for 2 hours until
the liquid was reduced roughly by half. Finally
it was strained through a fine cheesecloth, and
the contents of the cheesecloth discarded—only
the broth was to be consumed in this stage. The
third and final phase, the pâté test,
involved sautéing a 489.5 gram (1 livre
poids de marc) sample in garlic, onions, and
butter for 7 minutes. The mixture was next finely
chopped and blended with Cognac and Madeira, and
then pressed into a buttered mould. Chilled and
left overnight in a tightly sealed container, it
was eaten the next day after spreading it on toasted
bread.
Observations
After each stage of the evaluation
process, Travigne wrote down detailed notes of his
impressions. It was here that he put to use his
experienced palate, describing in words the subtle
variations in texture and flavour that existed between
one species and another. Later, after thorough review
and comparison of his notes, he arranged each animal
type into one of five distinct classes, as shown
in figure 1. We can see that under Travigne’s
system, the vast majority of animals belonged to
a single class, namely, Poulet or “chicken”.
It can also be observed that although initially
Travigne limited himself to domesticated or indigenous
species, as time went on, he gradually began to
branch out into foreign and other specimens.
It should be noted that Animaux
comestibles never reached a finished state;
it was a work in progress, under constant revision
throughout most of Travigne’s adult life.
His notes also indicate that as the number of tested
and classified species began to grow he had considered
grouping them into sub-classes based on the tenderness
or dryness of the meat. For example, one such sub-class
was to include turkey and bear, among others. Sadly,
these ideas were never fully formalised, as Travigne
passed away at the young age of 27 due to inflammation
of the brain. This is now believed by medical historians
to have been caused by the ingestion of common garden
slugs, known carriers of a lung worm parasite causing
eosinophilic meningitis. One can only presume Travigne
was at the time expanding his research to include
the more exotic species; alas, no indication is
given in his notes as to which class he though this
organism should belong.
Conclusion
Today’s system of biological
classification has remained largely unchanged since
its inception over two centuries ago. Recent years,
however, have seen a flurry of new ideas gain increasingly
wider acceptance among the scientific elite. Travigne’s
method of classification, though by no means new,
demonstrates a simple logic that is worthy of reconsideration.
Though critics might denounce its theoretical basis
by alleging that taste is the most subjective of
the senses, one could equally argue that it is also
the most discerning. The system of Louis Travigne
presents us with a concise yet viable alternative
that demands a second look.
References
Gerszonowicz, B. (1985). The
mystery of Carl Linnaeus: Scientific vision or simple
plant fetish? Berkeley, CA: University of Berkeley
Press.
Town Records. (1781). Levionne-sur-mer, France.
|
|
